Just north of Reykjavík lies one of Iceland’s most magnificent and beautiful fjords, Hvalfjördur. Today, the fjord is unfortunately sparsely visited, as Route 1 bypasses its inner part, heading west and north. Hvalfjördur didn’t exist 700,000 years ago, but Ice Age glaciers and shifting volcanic activity to the east carved out this 30 km long fjord over the past 100,000 years.
The fjord offers numerous hiking trails, including one to Glymur, one of the country’s tallest waterfalls at the fjord’s innermost point. You can also hike the trail Leggjabrjótur (which means ‘Leg breaker’!) to Thingvellir or stroll around Medalfellsvatn in Kjós, an exceptionally easy and rewarding route. During World War II, the Allied Forces established a large base for ships and submarines deeper within the fjord. It is also home to Iceland’s only whaling station. Less than an hour’s drive from the capital, Hvalfjördur feels like another world altogether.
Hvalfjördur, 06/12/2024: A7R IV, RX1R II – FE 1.4/24mm GM, 2.0/35mm Z, FE 1.2/50mm GM, FE 1.4/85mm GM
Photographs & text: Páll Stefánsson
