Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach is a popular recreational part of the Öskjuhlíd area.

An Oasis in the Capital

If Öskjuhlíd, a hill rising southeast of downtown Reykjavik, were in Denmark, it would likely be called a mountain. Indeed, Öskjuhlíd is visible from all over the capital area, with the Pearl (Perlan), sitting atop hot water reservoir tanks built in 1991, serving as a prominent landmark. These replaced the hot water tanks originally constructed in 1940 when the initial steps were taken to develop the geothermal heating system for Reykjavik. Nearly thirty years earlier, there was extensive stone quarrying in Öskjuhlíd, with stone transported by the only railway ever to exist in Iceland to build Reykjavik Harbour as we know it today.

On the southern slopes of Öskjuhlíd is the country’s largest cemetery, Fossvogur Cemetery, consecrated in 1932. West of the cemetery is a large forestation and recreational area, where tree planting began about 70 years ago on the southern and western parts of the hill. Remnants of World War II can be found there, as the Allies built fortifications to defend Reykjavik Airport. The airport is currently seeking permission to cut down part of the forest, as the tallest trees have begun to interfere with take-offs and landings on the east-west runway.

Öskjuhlíd is an unusual place, an oasis to enjoy outdoor activities, nature, and views over the capital area and the blue waters outside the harbour.

ugurated in 1991, Perlan houses a museum, restaurants, and hot water reservoir tanks atop Öskjuhlíd, currently listed for sale by Reykjavik City Council.
Looking westwards over central Reykjavik. WW2 remnants in the foreground, Hallgrímskirkja church to the right, and the newest part of Hlídar residential area to the left.
Looking westwards over central Reykjavik. WW2 remnants in the foreground, Hallgrímskirkja church to the right, and the newest part of Hlídar residential area to the left.
Fossvogskirkja church and churchyard, built in 1948 and designed by architect Sigurdur Gudmundsson.
Reykjavík University is situated below the southwestern slopes of Öskjuhlíd.

Reykjavík 09/07/2024 : RX1R II, A7C R – 2.0/35mm Z, FE 1.8/20mm G
photos & text : Páll Stefánsson