Through a Cold Valley

The Kaldidalur (“Cold Valley”) route is an ancient highway from Thingvellir up into
Borgarfjordur and from there further north. Kaldidalur was the first mountain road to be
cleared in Iceland, in 1830, at the initiative of the poet and district governor Bjarni
Thorarensen.

The road ranks among the highest in the country, reaching an altitude of 730 m (2,400
ft) west of Langjokull. It is only passable in summer, and then only for reasonably well-
equipped vehicles. The route runs mostly across barren gravel plains, stretching from
Thingvellir National Park down to Husafell in Borgarfjordur, a beautifully green oasis.

From Husafell it is just a stone’s throw to Hraunfossar, the waterfalls that cascade from
under a lava field into the river Hvita. For travelers wishing to experience as many sides
of Iceland as possible, this makes an excellent day trip: a round journey from Reykjavik
to Thingvellir, then through Kaldidalur down into Borgarfjordur, continuing on to
Reykholt, Hvanneyri, and Borgarnes before returning to the capital.

Looking toward Langjokull, shrouded in clouds
The road — straight, but not wide
Hraunfossar waterfalls in Borgarfjordur
The road leaving Thingvellir National Park
Thingvellir, with the mountain Skjaldbreidur in the distance; the road runs just west of
the mountain
Kerlingarmelar, on Blaskogarheidi
The road reaches its highest point at 730 m (2,400 ft) above sea level
In Husafell, a sculpture by local artist Pall Gudmundsson

Photos & Text : Páll Stefánsson

Vesturland 11/08/2025 – A7R IV, RX1R II : FE 1.8/135mm GM, FE 1.2/50mm GM, FE 1.8/20mm G, 2.0/35mm Z